So how did the day progress? Well after breakfast we hit the road at about 9.30. I confidently predicted tailwinds. However after the first few kilometres it became clear that the winds were doing strange things. My theory is that the northerlies were hitting the mountain range to the east of us and then creating strange vortices. Just like happens along Lake George near Canberra on windy days. The result was that the strong winds changed direction constantly. It reminded me of a ride many years ago where I was riding with Steve Baker and the wind actually pushed me off the road. That time the deep dish rims contributed. Today it was much windier. One moment you could be riding at 30 kms an hour with a tailwind and then all of a sudden down to 15 kms per hour with a massive headwind or worse, a head to cross wind. It sure made keeping the bike on the road a challenge.
After about 25 kms we stopped in Hengcheng for a drink and food. After Hengcheng we were inland for a while and hit the coast again a few kilometres north of Kenting. The scenery along the Kenting coast is spectacular. Here are some photos, including one of the nuclear power station.
Kenting photos
On the southern outskirts of Kenting we stopped at a cafe for lunch. Kenny had a chicken burger and an iced coffee which he said was delicious. I had a fish burger which was also nice. Back on the road we battled the winds to reach the Eluandi Lighhouse. The guard at the gate wouldn't let us take our bikes in we settled into the car park. I took a picture of the lighthouse. It appeared there was a way down the the southern tip along another road but Kenny and I could not be bothered as we didn't know what other official might be there to stop us. Anyway we had reached the turning point on route 26 and that was good enough for me.
Eluandi Lighthouse
After the light house we had to ride up a 4 kilometre hill. We were now officallly on the east coast. I had thought the winds were bad up to now. But I was to be surprised, yes it could get worse. Riding up the hill I was reduced to speeds of 6-8 kms an hour. Not only that the wind was making it hard for me to keep a straight line. I seriously considered walking because I was worried that the strong easterlies would knock me into a bus. But I persevered. Kenny had earlier decided to ride up the climb at a faster speed and he reached the top well before me. As I peaked the climb I found Kenny sitting on his bike. The winds were gale force. The lookout was again spectacular, but was difficult even trying to stand up. Kenny said the climb was up to 7%, just near some military base that looked very much like a spying or electronic surveillance establishment. I reckon after adjusting for wind factor it was more like 10%.
Onwards and northwards we rode. At times we found ourselves sheltered from the gales. But as soon as the shelter disappeared we were reduced to a crawl. A few more climbs. On one the sand was blowing up from the beach below and it felt like I was in a sandblaster. At the top of that hill we saw a honda 4WD being blown backwards by the wind. Amazing!!!
A few more kilometres down the road we stopped at a small town called Gengkou (I think). This town seemed to be a bit of a surfing Mecca. There were surfing shops and surfing style hostels. We still had 9 kms to ride so after a ice block and some milk tea we headed inland. We benefited from a few kms of tailwind but mostly they were cross winds. Finally, we reached the township of Manzhou. We stopped in at the 7-Eleven to buy some supplies just in case we could not get dinner or breakfast at our accomodation. We needn't have worried because Lin-Hui had arranged that we would have dinner and breakfast. The owner Peter greeted us showed us to our room. For dinner Peter's wife prepared a really delicious meal. It was one of the best I have had in my time in Taiwan. Rice, vegetables, a type of tofu dumpling and some fried tofu. There was so much to eat and as usual I could only get through half of it. But my stomach is improving because today I ate the most I have eaten since Saturday.
Peter told me his story. He was born in mainland China and came to Taiwan aged 3 years with his mother. They came to follow his father. Peter is now 70 years old so that would have been in about 1946. The plan was to return to China but the 1949 revolution changed all that. I said he was lucky because he might have been caught up in the cultural revolution. Peter and his wife were teachers at a local university and retired nearly 20 years ago to run this resort and farm. Both his children now live in Taipei. He and his wife are genuinely nice people and I enjoyed sitting at the table talking.
After dinner we washed our bike gear and I am now settled on the bed writing this blog. One other thing, I said hopefully that maybe tomorrow won't be as windy. Peter responded,no tomorrow will be worse. I hope he is wrong. But he is a local and he will know best. So the prognosis appears to be strong headwinds for the 70 km trip to Dawu. We have two climbs to get over. One is a 350 metre climb that is supposed to be not too bad. The second is a 500 metre climb. Most of the cycling blogs on round Taiwan touring complain about the second climb. So expect me to be exhausted tomorrow night. Not only will we have the climbs but we will have headwinds.
Kenny has taken to watching Taiwanese soap operas. His current liking is for one that seems to involve lots of fighting with plastic swords and extremely wobbly spears. It's replaced his previous favourite, a Japanese cartoon about two very naughty train conductors. He keeps on. Uttering how corny it is. Well then why doesn't he change the channel?
PS: I tried posting this yesterday but this part of the east coast has poor internet connection.
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